Motoring
Leather Or Textile? What To Look For In A Motorcycle Jacket
EN 17092 classes, armour levels, textile vs leather vs denim, waterproofing, fit and women’s cuts: a plain-English guide to picking a riding jacket.
Knowing how to choose a motorcycle jacket comes down to a handful of questions: how much protection the label promises, what armour is inside, how it copes with British rain, and whether it fits you properly in the riding position. Get those right and the colour and style are the easy part.
This guide covers textile touring jackets, leather, women’s-cut jackets and the casual denim, hoodie and T-shirt options at the lighter end of the market. No jacket makes riding risk-free, but a well-chosen one gives you a better chance in a spill.
Start With The EN 17092 Label
Motorcycle jackets and trousers sold as protective clothing are tested to EN 17092. According to the testing body SATRA’s summary of EN 17092, the standard covers jackets, trousers and one- and two-piece suits, with Part 1 setting out the test methods and Parts 2 to 6 covering the five classes: AAA, AA, A, B and C.
- AAA and AA: the highest protection levels. Impact protectors at the shoulders, elbows, hips and knees are required.
- A: similar to AA, but hip protectors are optional.
- B: designed to match class A for abrasion resistance, but without impact protectors.
- C: impact protection only over the areas the protectors cover, with no minimum abrasion resistance. Class C garments are meant to be worn with, and add to, an AAA, AA, A or B garment.
The tests include abrasion (how long the material survives a slide on a concrete-like surface), seam strength, which applies to every seam type, zip and protector pocket, and a check that the garment doesn’t shrink or stretch by more than 5 per cent after the cleaning method on its label. In practice, look for the class on the sewn-in label rather than relying on phrases like “CE armour”, which may only refer to the pads inside.
Armour, EN 1621 Levels And The Back Protector
Impact protectors are tested separately to EN 1621. Limb armour for the shoulders, elbows, hips and knees falls under EN 1621-1, and back protectors under EN 1621-2. Both have two levels, and a lower transmitted force means less energy reaching your body:
- EN 1621-1 limb armour: level 1 must average below 35 kN, level 2 below 20 kN.
- EN 1621-2 back protectors: level 1 must average below 18 kN, level 2 below 9 kN.
Many jackets come with limb armour but only a pocket for a back protector, or a thin foam pad in that space. MotoCAP, the Australian government-backed gear rating scheme, advises looking for the EN 1621-1 mark on the protector itself, because uncertified foam fillers may not protect you properly. If your jacket has an empty back pocket, a certified insert is worth adding. Research summarised on Wikipedia’s motorcycle armour page suggests back protectors can’t prevent most spinal injuries, which come from bending and twisting, so treat one as useful padding rather than a guarantee.
Some jackets also take an EN 1621-3 chest protector, and airbag systems are tested under EN 1621-4.
How To Choose A Motorcycle Jacket Material From Textile, Leather Or Denim
Textile
Textile jackets suit UK commuting and touring because they can combine abrasion-resistant fabric, a waterproof membrane, vents and pockets in one garment. Touring jackets such as the Lindstrands Transtrand, which the maker lists as a two-layer laminated jacket certified to class AA, show what a modern textile jacket can carry.
Leather
Leather jackets often have a closer, sportier cut. The Alpinestars GP Plus R V4 Airflow, for example, is certified to class AA according to the manufacturer and uses perforated zones on the chest and sides for airflow. Perforated leather is cooler in summer but isn’t waterproof, so plan for rain gear.
Denim, Hoodies And T-Shirts
The material matters less than the test result. MotoCAP tests every jacket by the same methods regardless of what it is made from, and points out that denim trousers with a given safety rating offer the same protection as leather trousers with that rating. So a denim jacket or riding hoodie can be protective if it carries an EN 17092 class and has armour pockets filled with certified protectors. An ordinary fashion denim jacket, hoodie or baseball tee has no protection rating and should be treated as a casual layer for off the bike or under a proper jacket. Our guide on what to wear under a motorcycle jacket has more on layering.
Waterproofing And Ventilation
MotoCAP’s advice is that gear should let sweat escape while keeping rain out, and that PVC and plasticised nylon are waterproof but don’t breathe. Most waterproof jackets instead use a breathable membrane, fitted in one of two ways.
Drop Liners And Removable Liners
Here the membrane hangs inside the outer fabric as a separate layer. These jackets are usually cheaper and comfortable, and the air gap can make them warmer in dry, cold weather. The downside is that in long, heavy rain the outer shell soaks through (“wets out”), becoming heavier, colder and slower to dry. Removable liners add flexibility, but you have to stop and zip them back in when the weather turns.
Laminated Jackets
On a laminated jacket the membrane is bonded to the inside of the outer fabric, so the shell can’t become saturated. They dry quickly, often within an hour or two, and vents can bring air straight to your body. They tend to cost more, can feel stiffer, and depend on good-quality waterproof zips. A water-repellent (DWR) finish on the outer fabric wears off over time and needs re-applying, usually after washing.
If you ride most days or tour in all weathers, laminated is worth considering. For occasional riders, a liner jacket plus an oversuit for downpours is a sensible alternative. For cold-weather tactics, see our winter motorcycle riding tips.
Ventilation
A jacket you are too hot in is one you’ll be tempted to leave at home. MotoCAP recommends vents in the chest, the back or ideally both, and suggests avoiding vents at the elbows and shoulders, where they could weaken the jacket in an impact. Check how easy vents are to open while wearing gloves, and whether a thermal liner can be removed for summer.
How To Choose A Motorcycle Jacket That Fits
Fit is where protection is won or lost. MotoCAP notes that a jacket must fit snugly across the shoulders so the armour stays in place, and advises trying gear on over the clothes you normally ride in, then checking it is snug and comfortable in your normal riding position. Loose clothing flaps, distracts you and lets the cold in.
- Sit on a bike, or mimic the riding position, and reach forward. The sleeves should still reach your wrists and the elbow armour should sit on your elbows.
- Check the back doesn’t ride up and expose your lower back. Many sports jackets are cut longer at the back for this reason.
- Use the waist, arm and collar adjusters to close gaps without restricting movement.
Women’s-Cut Jackets
The same rules apply whether a jacket is sold as men’s or women’s: MotoCAP’s advice is to make sure the protectors can be adjusted to sit over the shoulders, elbows, hips and knees. A women’s-specific cut simply makes that easier for many riders. The Halvarssons Jolen, for example, is listed by its maker as a women’s two-layer laminated jacket certified to class AA, sized 36 to 46. Try several sizes, as brands size differently.
Visibility, Zips And Care
The Highway Code advises riders to make themselves as visible as possible from the side, front and rear, suggesting fluorescent clothing or strips by day and reflective clothing or strips in the dark. A bright jacket, reflective panels or a hi-vis vest all help; our guide on how to be more visible on the road goes further.
A connecting zip joins the jacket to your trousers so the jacket can’t ride up in a slide. It is usually designed for the same brand’s trousers, so check compatibility before you buy. Both the Transtrand and Jolen, for example, have a long connection zip to trousers. Our motorcycle trousers buying guide covers the other half of the pair.
Also look for double or triple stitching on the main seams and flaps over zips and fasteners, both of which MotoCAP recommends, and avoid unnecessary decorations or pockets in impact zones.
For care, follow the label: EN 17092 garments are tested for shrinkage after the cleaning method the maker specifies. Re-apply a water-repellent treatment to textile jackets as it wears off. After any fall, check seams, zips and the outer material before relying on the jacket again.
FAQ
Is Denim Good For A Motorcycle Jacket?
It can be, if it is made and certified as protective clothing. A denim jacket with an EN 17092 class and certified armour has been tested like any other riding jacket. Everyday fashion denim has not, and offers little protection in a slide.
Can I Ride In A Hoodie?
Only if it is a riding hoodie with an EN 17092 class and certified armour fitted. A normal hoodie or T-shirt is a layer, not protection.
Do I Legally Have To Wear A Motorcycle Jacket In The UK?
No. The Highway Code only requires a helmet, though it says strong boots, gloves and suitable clothing may help protect you in a collision. See do you need to wear gear on a motorcycle? for more, and our motorcycle helmet buying guide for the one item the law insists on.
Is Level 1 Armour Good Enough?
Level 1 meets the standard, but level 2 lets less force through, so it is the stronger choice where available.
Quick Motorcycle Jacket Checklist
- EN 17092 class on the label (AAA, AA or A for armoured protection).
- EN 1621-1 armour at shoulders and elbows, ideally level 2.
- A certified EN 1621-2 back protector, or a pocket to add one.
- Laminated or liner waterproofing to suit how often you ride in rain.
- Chest and back vents for summer.
- Snug fit in the riding position, with armour staying put.
- Connecting zip that matches your trousers.
- Bright colours or reflective panels.
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